Featured Winery: Mario Bazan Cellars

On August 28, I was lucky enough to meet the Bazán family to discuss their young label, Mario Bazán Cellars, launched in 2005. In attendance was the entire Bazan clan: Mario, his wife Gloria, and their two sons Antonio and Alexander. We met at Taylor's Refresher in downtown Napa's Oxbow Market.

History. Mario's history is just as captivating as his namesake Cabernet Sauvignon: originally an immigrant from Oaxaca, Mexico, Mario settled in the Napa Valley in 1973 and began work as a laborer in vineyard production. During his vineyard management years, he worked for the likes of Joseph Phelps vineyards, Robert Mondavi, Opus One, To-Kalon, and Stags Leap Wine Cellars.

In 1997 Mario formed his own vineyard management company, Mario Bazán Vineyard Management, where he managed a number of vineyards, including some for small, high-end boutique labels. Like so many small, quality wineries, Mario Bazán Cellars is a family operation. Mario and his wife Gloria run the operation, and their two sons (still too young even for pre-school) are avid onlookers and likely progenitors to the MBC label. Gloria, originally a pediatric dentist from Michoacán, Mexico, is co-founder of the winery and manages its day-to-day operations.

The Wine. Mario Bazán Cellars makes one wine: a bold Cabernet Sauvignon. Their first vintage was in 2005, and production was limited to 250 cases. Most of their fruit comes directly from their 1.25 acre estate vineyard in Napa, perched low in the foothills of Atlas Peak. Winemaking is facilitated by the capable Victoria Coleman, a protégé of Michael Silacci at Stag's Leap Wine Cellars.

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley.

Appearance: In the glass, the wine is dark and obscure, with an inky texture that clings to the glass.

Aroma/Bouquet: This Cabernet has an assertive nose, with aromas of pepper, earth, cigar box, and hints of espresso.

Flavors: The wine initially exhibits spice and plum flavors reminiscent of higher elevation mountain Cabs (although the Bazán's vineyard sits roughly at 80-feet above sea level). At mid-palette it opens up to dominant pepper and blackberry flavors with hints of chocolate and a pervasive heat that gives way to a simple but pleasing cocoa finish.

Overall Impression: This is a bold Cabernet. I liked it straight out of the bottle, but it definitely benefits from decanting. After a couple of hours in the decanter the wine opened up and exhibited more complexity and additional nuances that weren't evident within the first hour after opening. As such, this wine is most definitely cellar-worthy, and I would expect it to age gracefully and be enjoyable many years from its vintage date. With its elegant, understated packaging, its good looks will enhance any wine cellar!

Website. Learn more about Mario Bazán Cellars and purchase their wines direct at their website: www.mariobazancellars.com.